The Bastille Crack is Colorado’s most famous and sought-after climbing route. Climbers from all over the world visit Eldorado Canyon State Park to tackle this five-pitch trad route. A 30-second approach protects some of the best climbing in North America!

Ivy Baldwin walked a tightrope between the top of the Bastille Formation and the adjoining Wind Tower long before the Bastille Crack was first climbed by US Army Soldiers in the 1950s. The South Boulder Creek roared 582 feet below him as he made the Bastille Formation famous.

Pitch one starts right off the road and leads to a spectacular summit over five pitches of moderate face climbing, hand jamming, and chimneying. This is a fantastic summer route because it is shaded till late in the afternoon.

• Recommended experience level: intermediate to advanced

• This is a semi-strenuous climb

• 5 pitches, 5.7

Take CO Hwy 93 (Broadway) South from Boulder until you reach the first stop signal after leaving Boulder. Eldorado Springs Dr. is the address. Continue west till you reach the town. The park entrance is located at the end of the gravel road leading into town.

From Denver, take I-25 north to US 36. Exit at CO Highway 170. Follow it as it arcs around a new shopping complex, then beyond CO Hwy 93 to Eldorado Springs and the state park. Yes, because this is a state park, there is a cost (5-6 dollars depending on the time of year).

The Bastille, located directly off the road, is the first large’spire’ or ‘tower’ to the south. To the right of Werk Supp (5.9), look for a huge flake. The first pitch anchors should be visible.

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